{
  "schema_version": 1,
  "game": "Wreckfest 2",
  "type": "driving_strategy",
  "car": "Nami",
  "sections": [
    {
      "heading": "The corner, in three acts",
      "content": [
        "ENTRY Brake early, brake light Do most braking in a straight line, earlier and gentler than heavier cars need to. The prize isn't a late braking point — it's arriving at turn-in balanced, so you can carry more mid-corner speed than anyone. Bleed the last bit of brake off gradually as you turn; snapping off the pedal is a lift, and lifts are how the Nami spins.",
        "MID Maintenance throttle The Nami's superpower is mid-corner speed — this is where you gain on every muscle car. Get to light, steady throttle as early as possible; a settled rear axle under slight drive is far more stable than a coasting one. Never fully lift mid-corner. If you're too hot, breathe the throttle a few percent, don't close it.",
        "EXIT Roll on, don't stab Squeeze the throttle progressively from apex. The engine isn't torquey enough to demand much patience on tarmac, but on dirt a stab still lights up the rears. Prioritize a wide, open exit line — exit speed is compound interest that pays down the whole straight, and straights are where the V8s eat you.",
        "The cardinal sin: the mid-corner lift. Snapping off the throttle while loaded up transfers weight off the rear tires, and the short wheelbase turns that into instant rotation. When something goes wrong mid-corner — you're too fast, someone's alongside, a wreck appears — your instinct is to lift. Train the replacement habit: soften the throttle gradually and add a touch of steering, or commit to the slide with counter-steer. The only good full lift is a deliberate one (see dirt technique)."
      ]
    },
    {
      "heading": "Racing lines for a momentum car",
      "content": [
        "Drive the widest, roundest arc the track allows — enter wider and apex slightly later than feels natural. A rounder arc means a higher minimum speed, and minimum speed is the Nami's whole business model. The classic \"V-line\" (brake deep, rotate, fire out) suits torquey cars that can rebuild speed; the Nami can't, so a V-line just donates your one advantage. Two refinements:",
        "Sacrifice corners that lead onto short straights to perfect the ones that lead onto long ones — position your arc for the corner that matters. And use every inch of exit room: track out fully, use kerbs and even light banking or the dirt cushion where it's smooth enough, because a few extra feet of radius is free speed."
      ]
    },
    {
      "heading": "Throttle as a steering input",
      "content": [
        "In a light RWD car the throttle steers as much as the wheel does. Build these into muscle memory:",
        "To tighten your line Breathe the throttle slightly — a few percent, not a lift. Weight shifts forward, the front bites, the nose tucks in. This is how you adjust mid-corner without touching the brakes.",
        "To widen your line / calm the rear Add a little throttle. Weight shifts rearward, the rear plants, the arc opens. Counter-intuitively, a nervous rear mid-corner often wants more throttle, not less.",
        "Catching slides: the Nami slides fast but also communicates fast. Counter-steer the moment the rear moves — with a quick steering-ratio setup you have the hands for it — and keep a whisper of throttle on through the correction. The spin usually happens on the second pendulum, when you over-correct and lift simultaneously. Unwind the counter-steer as eagerly as you applied it."
      ]
    },
    {
      "heading": "Surface tactics",
      "content": [
        "Tarmac — precision mode This is where the Nami is genuinely elite. Drive it like a circuit car: smooth arcs, light trail-braking, early maintenance throttle, full track width. Your lap time lives in the two or three fastest corners — the ones where muscle cars must brake and you barely do. Learn which corners on each track are \"flat or nearly flat\" in the Nami and protect your run through them at all costs.",
        "Kerbs: the light chassis takes flat kerbs fine but launches off tall ones — the same trait that makes it skip on bumps. Sample each kerb once at reduced pace before trusting it.",
        "Dirt & gravel — rally mode Grip is made, not found. For tighter corners, use the deliberate lift or flick: a brief off-throttle moment (or a quick steer-away-then-in) on approach pitches the car sideways before the corner, then you drive through on throttle with the diff's power lock pulling you along the arc. The entry rotation you fear on tarmac is the tool you want on dirt — the difference is you chose it.",
        "Keep slide angles modest; big lurid angles look great and scrub speed. And use the cushion — the built-up loose stuff on the outside of worn corners can be leaned on like a berm."
      ]
    },
    {
      "heading": "Traffic survival you are the lightest thing on the grid — act like it",
      "content": [
        "Rule zero: never trade paint with a heavier car. Every exchange of contact is net-negative for you. The RoadSlayers and Rammers of the world lose a little speed when you collide; you lose your alignment, your radiator, or your race. Winning in the Nami means winning around people, not through them.",
        "Lap 1 & turn 1 The opening scrum is maximum danger and minimum reward. Take the outside line or hang back half a car-length into turn 1 — you lose one position and gain an intact car while the heavy cars pile in. Wrecks ahead are passing opportunities; wrecks around you are the end of your race.",
        "Overtaking Pass where your car is strong: carry speed through a fast corner and complete the move on the exit, already alongside before the next braking zone. Avoid pure out-braking duels — they end side-by-side into a corner, which is a coin-flip you can't afford. Bait instead: pressure a heavy car for a lap and let them overcook a corner defending.",
        "Defending Don't. Not conventionally — parking on the inside line invites a bumper through your door. Defend with corner speed and unpredictable-but-legal lines: take your momentum arc, deny them a clean run onto the straight, and if a heavy car has a genuine run on you, concede the position cleanly and re-attack in the twisty stuff.",
        "Positioning around chaos: in a pack, put a full car-width of air on your sides wherever possible, and never sit directly beside a heavy car through a corner — that's where mid-corner contact happens, and mid-corner contact spins light cars. Following closely is also a trap: you inherit whatever the car ahead hits. Give one extra car-length and use your cornering to close it back for free."
      ]
    },
    {
      "heading": "Damage management",
      "content": [
        "Protect the nose above all Front-end damage bends your carefully tuned alignment (the car pulls and stops tracking straight) and the engine and radiator live up there — mechanical hits now score for your opponents and a dead radiator ends races slowly and inevitably. If contact is truly unavoidable, rotate the hit onto your rear quarter: it steers better wounded from behind than from ahead.",
        "Driving a wounded Nami Pulling to one side after a hit is bent alignment — add a standing steering correction and widen your margins; don't chase it with anger. Down on power or running hot, switch to full conservation: shortest clean lines, no fights, bank the finish. In multi-race events, points for a clean 4th beat a wrecked hero-run for 2nd every time."
      ]
    },
    {
      "heading": "Event playbook",
      "content": [
        "Ovals & figure-8s On ovals, momentum is everything — which sounds like Nami territory, but the pack runs close and heavy, so treat it as a positioning game: run the high line out of the marbles and contact, and make your pass when the low-line traffic checks up. Figure-8 crossings: lift early and fully before the intersection if timing is doubtful — a half-throttle hesitation right at the crossing is the worst of both worlds.",
        "Derbies & contact modes Honestly: bring a different car. If the lobby locks you in, play the perimeter game — keep rolling, never stop, never enter the center scrum. Hits you must deliver go rear-bumper-first into cars already tangled with someone else. In Suicide Racing and other chicken formats, your agility is the weapon: commit to your line early and use small, late dodges rather than big early ones.",
        "Waypoint modes Open-terrain navigation actually favors the Nami: agility and rough-ground pace matter more than top speed, and there's no pack funneling into one corner. Plan two waypoints ahead, prefer the smoother of two route options even when slightly longer, and treat every crest blind — the light chassis flies farther than you think."
      ]
    },
    {
      "heading": "The five mistakes that end Nami races",
      "content": [
        "Breathe the throttle, never close it. If the rear's already gone, counter-steer and stay on a whisper of gas. Practice this deliberately on an empty dirt track until it's reflex.",
        "Complete passes before the corner or don't start them. Concede coin-flip positions; the twisty section gives them back for free.",
        "Brake early, carry mid-corner speed. Your lap time is made at minimum speed, not at the braking point. The V8s win braking-point contests; you win everything between the corners' braking zones.",
        "Outside line or half a beat of patience at turn 1. The race is long and the attrition ahead of you is your friend.",
        "5. Fighting for position with a wounded car",
        "Bent alignment, hot engine, or crumpled nose means conservation mode: clean lines, no contact, bank the points."
      ]
    },
    {
      "heading": "The mindset",
      "content": [
        "The Nami race has a shape: survive the start, stalk through the middle, strike in the final third. Early laps are about being invisible — clean air, intact bodywork, learning where today's wrecks happen. Mid-race, use corner speed to quietly close gaps that heavy cars can't defend everywhere. Late race, their tires of patience wear out: damaged cars overcook corners, packs thin, and your unbent momentum machine is suddenly the fastest thing on track. Most Nami wins are inherited by the last clean car — make sure that's you, then make it look intentional.",
        "Pairing with the tuning card: when a strategy here keeps failing, it's often a setup mismatch, not a driving flaw. Can't hold maintenance throttle without the rear wandering? That's Coast lock or rear toe-in (tuning card, page 1). Can't catch slides in time? Steering ratio. The two documents are one system: the setup buys you the margin, the driving spends it wisely."
      ]
    }
  ],
  "summary": "The one-sentence version: the Nami is a momentum car — it wins by never slowing down, because it has neither the torque to rebuild speed quickly nor the mass to survive rebuilding it in traffic. Every technique on these pages serves that single idea: protect your speed, protect your nose, and let the heavy cars beat each other up."
}